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Rafa Peña: “Happy, spontaneous, seasonal and easy-to-eat cuisine”

 

Gresca restaurant (Barcelona) took over the facilities at the Mugaritz restaurant to give his presentation on offal and vegetables.

During his presentation, he showcased six simple dishes that were the result of the evolution of his culinary concept.

It is not unreasonable to mention the evolution of the Gresca restaurant's cuisine from its inception until now, as José Carlos Capel pointed out in the introduction to Rafa Peña's presentation. The six dishes the chef introduced to the audience reflected a process of change and learning from experience. Peña himself confessed that nowadays, they pursue cuisine that is stripped of strict formality, less regimented, more transparent, more seasonal and more spontaneous. “We go for cuisine that makes us happier and that is easier to eat”, Rafa remarked. This paradigm shift occurred in 2016, when a wine bar was added to Gresca's facilities and the kitchen was made visible to diners.

He cooked a total of six dishes during his presentation, the simplicity of which could even be replicated at home. 

The first was a roasted, peeled aubergine covered with a vinaigrette made of raspberry vinegar and pistachio oil, which Peña asserted came from Alain Ducasse. The dish was accompanied by fresh onion, fresh pistachio and parmesan. “We used to make much more elaborate dishes, but now they are more streamlined, more direct, which means that the service is also more agile”, explained the Catalan chef as he prepared the dish.

The second recipe: a poached foie gras in a vegetable stock (carrot, leek, bay leaf, sherry vinegar...). The plated dish only featured the ingredients mentioned: broth, foie in portions and leek.

The third dish in the presentation was “like a pil pil of cod tripe with mushrooms”, Peña observed. It was a dish for a spoon with a dash of turmeric. The fish entrails were cooked in a chicken broth (with garlic, onion and a pinch of turmeric), to which saffron milkcaps were added. The mixture was emulsified with olive oil until it gained consistency. 

From broths to the Japanese grill, where he cooked three pinchos: veal liver, parson’s nose and celeriac. The following accompaniments were added to the dish: liver with sesame sauce and dried turnip and onion kimchi; boneless parson's nose with shichimi and celeriac with salted egg yolk. 

The following dish continued the theme of advocating offal: tongue on a piece of French toast soaked in broth with comté cheese (they use the leftover from their bikini recipe to avoid leaving anything). 

And lastly, Peña prepared one of Gresca's star dishes: brains. Before starting to make it, the chef explained that the recipe comes from French chef, Raquel Carena. The brains are poached in butter, potato and parsley and served as they come.

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