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Ice creams that don’t melt

 

Luis Arrufat, chef coordinator of the BCC masters and courses dept., along with Alfredo Taboada tenured lecturer of the BCC master’s degree in cuisine, technique, product and creativity, present three innovative techniques related to the world of ice cream: the complete elimination of sugar to create salty flavours, employing pectins and the use of methylcellulose to prevent them from melting.

From the facilities of the Basque Culinary Center, Luis Arrufat -chef coordinator of the masters and courses department, and Alfredo Taboada, tenured lecturer in cuisine, technique, product and creativity gave an innovative presentation -sponsored by BCC- on their findings in the world of ice cream.

The first technique they explained consisted of eliminating 100% of the sugars in preparing salty ice creams, something that had not yet been achieved until then. In order to achieve this result, the chefs performed a study that commenced with breaking down the composition of ice cream and finding an ingredient with the same behaviour of sugars, but without the sweetness. After the research undertaken, they concluded that, by using inulin, collagen and glycerine in the formula they obtained the result they were seeking.

On the other hand, in order to strengthen the flavours of their ice creams, the team confirmed they would replace the water in the composition of the ice creams (present in 64%) by broths, shakes or infusions.

As an example, they prepared a carpaccio with a frozen prawn bisque and quenelle dressed with salt crystals and lemon powder.

Another of the techniques they have worked upon is related to pectins. After discovering that vegetables turn into calcium pectate when in contact with lime, they proposed using the pectins as gelling agents to create amazing shapes of almost any product. In this case, it was carrot. After the process, displayed via video, it verified how this vegetable mutated its form to turn into a cylindrical mould which was filled with pickled quail. The proposal was completed with a pickle quenelle and some parsley shoots. Upon completing the dish, Taboada pointed out that, as regards clients, the important thing when applying these techniques is to accompany them with “distinguishable flavours in order to not confuse diners”.

Finally, they showed, perhaps the most remarkable technique; which prevents ice cream from melting. In this case, the discovery of methylcellulose, a gelling agent which can perform under heat is responsible for the achievement. Arrufat commented that using 0.9% in the composition of the ice cream was enough to obtain this result. As proof, both of them prepared a garlic ice cream accompanied by an egg yolk cured in brine, toasted bread, flower petals and a hot soup that didn’t manage to distort the appearance of the ice cream.

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