The chef at Contraste* (Milan) took part at San Sebastian Gastronomika to cook pasta in a “lighter” way, and to attest to the senselessness that the Covid has exposed of having “a restaurant that works but with an economic viability of only two months”. That is why he is committed to diversifying his business.

He is Uruguayan but came to San Sebastian Gastronomika representing Italy. Matias Perdomo has established himself In the transalpine country, and made a career as one of the best chefs in Milan. At Contraste*, Perdomo executes Italian-Uruguayan haute cuisine with dishes from afar, but where his two homelands always play a role. 

Over a link from his restaurant, the chef prepared two of these dishes: scallops with noodles  and caviar pasta, which is important as it is another way of preparing Italy's most important dish. “We realised that the carbohydrates in the pasta made it difficult to complete a tasting menu, so we reduced it by cooking it raw in a caviar format, and giving it a smoky touch”, explained the chef about a recipe he left to rest, covered like provolone for five days after being dipped in beeswax. 

Perdomo cooked, but what was more important were his words about how he sees the future of his restaurant and the restaurant industry in general. He is particularly committed to the freedom of diners. “We don't want anyone dictating what people like”, so at Contraste people at the same table can ask for different menus. “We are trying to move away from the rigid structures of restaurants”, he argued.

With regard to the Covid crisis, the chef explained that Milan “has learnt from the mistakes made at the beginning, and it seems that we are better off now”, and he affirmed that he can sense the public's desire for “warmth and humanity”, which is why his restaurant is working. “For our part, we have reduced capacity and staggered when our customers arrive”.

Speaking more generally, the Uruguayan said that “the crisis has made us rethink everything. The restaurant is full but we see that we can only be financially viable for another two or three months. It doesn't make sense”. Therefore, Perdomo and its partners have opened new businesses (the more informal Exit restaurant and a future location selling pies), focusing on “more flexible, less formal models, diversifying what we have to offer”. The future of haute cuisine, he summed up, “is going down sincere, product-oriented routes, but it will never die. It is the leading light for all the others, and it will remain so. We just have to complement it”.