Three chefs and gastronomic entrepreneurs discuss the present and future of the profession in a panel session moderated by Benjamín Lana. They agree on the continuous commitment for honesty and craftsmanship “let us keep working”. For this reason, they advocate clearer and less erratic measures from the authorities, who they criticise for measures such having to close at 11 pm. “They know nothing about our profession”. 

The effects of the pandemic the restaurant business Spain is undergoing has entered, as would be expected, into the discussions and talks at San Sebastián Gastronomika – Euskadi Basque Country. A subject, whose effects and claims, have steered the panel session held on Tuesday with the participation of restaurant entrepreneurs Sacha Hormaechea (Botillería and Fogón Sacha, Madrid), Nino Redruello (Fismuler, Madrid) and Pablo Loureiro (Casa Urola, San Sebastián). “Gastronomika can’t turn its back on reality”, stated journalist and moderator of the session, Benjamín Lana.

“Sacha, Nino and Pablo are three chefs and entrepreneurs who belong to a group of restauranteurs who moved out of the mainstream and not followed fashion trends, always cooking what they wanted to”, described Lana outlining the theme of the panel session before plunging into the reality of Covid. “This is the first time in forty years of profession that people have expressed their sympathy to me for being a chef. We’re in bad shape, and the last straw for Madrid has been mandatory closing at 11 pm. I don’t understand it at all”, asserted Sacha.

This is why, the three entrepreneurs were asking for some “sensitivity” from political leaders, since -according to Loureiro- “we feel neglected. They have to learn how we operate”. “People think that by reducing our capacity, we earn a little less -added Redruello. And that’s not true. We lose much more”. They all request some empathy from legislators and general respect, “since society continues to belittle the restaurant business. It’s something we’ve inherited from way in the past”, expanded the Fismuler chef. Things have to be turned around, because “the restaurant world is a cultural sector and a generator of energy. Social life exists thanks to us”, completed Hormaechea.

Sacha has spent half a century behind the stove and has never been one to bite his tongue: “Now, they only let you go to work and go to school. And what about us? Don’t we work? If we are a problem, well we close shop and we’ll see how we open up again, but let’s do things with some logic. Closing at 11 pm makes no sense at all”. Sacha was speaking his mind. Can you understand a football league with 20-minute matches at 3 am? You can’t, can you? It just wouldn’t be the same thing. Well, that’s exactly what they’re asking us to do. We can’t be asked to play a different type of match day in day out”.

“Let’s get back to cooking for the taste of our people”

The panel session addressed the pandemic but came back to its original theme, that of three restaurants that have not followed trends. Loureiro, since he took control of Casa Urola committed himself to tradition. “the cuisine that I like, and that’s how we must now face the future”. Honesty, sincerity, craftmanship. Redruello continued: “When I left el Bulli and visited Gastronomika in 2002 I wanted to devour the world with creativity. The tortilla with tripes I ate just after brought me back down to earth. I continued down the path much closer to the family legacy”, explained the person who has taken the helm of a family of restauranteurs (Grupo La Ancha) with respect but with audacity.

All the attention was on Sacha. The Madrid restauranteur “he has always done a he pleases, being honest with his customers and his product”, remarked Redruello. The man in question smiled. “I have tried to be loyal in my way of doing things, but this country has not. For years we have cooked what our guests wanted. Now we see that we have to please our own people”. A change in the model which will also be demonstrated in the delivery. “There will be a natural selection of the selection of dishes that will be successful with this model. Time will tell”, explained Hormaechea. Nevertheless, what remains, has been confirmed by the three speakers, namely “the truth and being honest”. The word of a restauranteur.